Uruguay – Colonial Towns Along Río de la Plata
Carmelo and Conchillas Are Two of Uruguay's Historical Towns
Jan 21, 2009
One of South America's scenic roads lies in Uruguay. Along the waterfront of Río de la Plata, with vineyards and white sandy beaches, several picturesque, historical towns are situated. Two of them are Carmelo and Conchillas, both west of Uruguay's capital of Montevideo. While Carmelo may be found on the tourist route of Uruguay, Conchillas is still a hidden jewel.
Tranquility in Colonial Towns of Río de la Plata
In both towns, the pace of life is unhurried and unaffected by the hustle and bustle of a big city. Most noticeable is the open atmosphere – evident not only in the friendliness of the people, but also in the absence of barred windows. Doors of houses are left open, as are the windows of cars – with keys in the ignition and the owner nowhere in sight.
Conchillas – a National Monument
A sign along Ruta 21 indicates the turn-off to the hamlet of Conchillas, established in 1887 by the British. It is a National Monument, thanks to the unique construction of the houses which have stone and clay walls (no cement has been used), plastered and painted yellow. The walls are one meter wide at the base, becoming narrower near the top. It's a village where retired men enjoy sitting on benches in front of their houses, sharing a "mate" [native tea-like beverage] while watching the world go by.
Conchillas – Vintage Cars and Cemetery
Wandering the streets one can't fail to notice the abundance of extraordinary vintage cars, dating from somewhere between the 1930s and 1970s. Even more extraordinary is the fact that these vintage cars are not museum pieces but daily means of transportation.
More history can be found at the cemetery, walled in to prevent goats and sheep from grazing on its soil. Steps lead over the wall into the cemetery where the oldest graves date from the 19th century. Modern graves are visited regularly and decorated with large vases, filled with colorful plastic flowers.
Carmelo – Historic Museum and Sunset at Río de la Plata
West of Conchillas lies Carmelo, founded in 1816 by Artigas – the leader of Uruguay in its struggle for independence. Nuestra Señora del Carmen is the town's patron saint and each year, on July 16th, she is honored with celebrations. Adjacent to the church is a museum, whose owner accepts anything for his eclectic collection that at some point in time was part of Carmelo and its inhabitants – varying from fossils to pots and pans, from a typewriter to the tools of the family doctor in the 19th century. Just like Conchillas, Carmelo is a must for vintage-car admirers.
While Carmelo is not known for any cultural highlights, the place radiates so much tranquillity that it is easy to linger and join the locals on the Artigas Square with a thermos and "mate". Or check out a basic eatery around Artigas Square to try Uruguay's ubiquitous "Chivito": a steak sandwich with cheese, lettuce, tomato and bacon.
Another option is to cross Las Vacas Stream via its swing bridge into Carmelo's area of water recreation. Adjacent to the yacht pier, popular with "porteños" from Buenos Aires with their yachts, is a shady "Camping Municipal" with cold showers where visitors can camp free of charge. The campsite is situated along Seré Beach of Río de la Plata, the river that separates Uruguay and Argentina. Seré Beach is a popular place for fishing and watching sunsets while sharing the quintessential "mate". If life becomes too boring, have a try at Carmelo's Casino to find some excitement [and possible financial gain].
Cultural Highlights in Uruguay and Argentina
Follow the road further west to visit the historical town of Mercedes or go the other way: east, where more scenic villages await you, like Colonia Suiza or Uruguay's gem: Colonia del Sacramento. From here it's easy to cross the Río de la Plata by Buquebus, the ferry which plies daily between Colonia and Buenos Aires. On the other side of the river more culture awaits the visitor: Luján, an important place of pilgrimage or Rosario, a city with interesting walking tours along its historical buildings.
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